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“The best phrase that describes my father is, he was a man who loved America but missed his country of origin very much and spent all his time in America trying to create that culture of food from Campania,” says De Marco’s son, Dominick Jr. “He brought the hills of Italy to Avenue J.” The younger De Marco adds, “There’s going to be some great pizza in heaven, so let’s all do our best to get there someday.”
In 1959, De Marco emigrated to New York from Provincia di Caserta. After working for a few months on a Long Island farm, according to the New York Times in 2004, De Marco opened a pizzeria with his brother in Sunset Park called Piccola Venezia. After a few years, he and a business partner named Farina opened Di Fara. “I do this as an art,” he said at the time. “I don’t look to make big money. If somebody comes over here and offers me a price for the store, there’s no price.”
Called “the holy grail of classic New York–style pizza” by New York’s Underground Gourmet, Di Fara was, for much of its run, a one-man show, so much so that the shop would close if De Marco was unable to work. Until recently, he produced every pizza himself, a fact that was woven deeply into the shop’s mythology. It gave the pizzeria an aura of craftsmanship just as the food world’s attention was shifting to artisans and producers.
© 2015 Mutual Fund Observer. All rights reserved.
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Comments
1. Boston's Pizza, Kailua. Boston style, of course. What I'm more accustomed to. Excellent.
2. Yellow Cab Pizza, Honolulu. Advertises itself as NY style. Thinner crust. And you can order it thinner, still. Tasty. A party in my mouth. YUMMY.
Photo: Biden Joins Troops in Poland for Pizza - 3/25/2022
@Mark - Maybe somebody asked … “Where’s the beer?”